“I Cried When I Entered al-Aqsa”: A Bethlehem-Area Farmer Enters Jerusalem for the First Time in over a Year

On March 22, 2024, the second Friday of Ramadan, 120,000 Muslim worshippers prayed at al-Aqsa Mosque. This is a record number compared to Fridays over the last five months since Israel closed the city due to its war on Gaza, but it is nothing like Fridays during Ramadan in previous years, when as many as a quarter of a million Muslims have prayed at the mosque. This is according to Azzam al-Khatib, director-general of the Department of Islamic Endowments (Waqf), the religious foundation responsible for managing the affairs of Islamic holy sites in Jerusalem.

The drop in numbers this year is attributed in part to the massive armed Israeli presence in every corner of Jerusalem. The city deployed thousands of police around the city.1 All the streets surrounding the Old City now resemble military barracks. The city’s neighborhoods have been filled with Israeli security personnel who prevent cars from approaching the Old City. At the entrance to the mosque esplanade, Israeli police search all young Palestinian men who wish to enter. 

On this Friday, thousands of worshippers spread over every part of the al-Aqsa Mosque and esplanade, occupying sunny areas on this cold day. It was a beautiful sight.

For those who made it in, the experience was deeply moving.

Jerusalem Story caught up with Abu Muhammad, 62, one of the lucky ones who managed to reach al-Aqsa after a long journey that began at dawn. He lives in the village of Nahalin near Bethlehem in the southern West Bank, a mere 15 kilometers away from Jerusalem. After the noon prayers, he squatted near a corner at the entrance to Lions’ Gate where he displayed herbs—fresh maryamiyya (sage), oregano, za‘atar (thyme), and dandelion—that he had brought with him in a black bag to sell.

“By God, what can I tell you? This is the first time I have been able to reach the al-Aqsa Mosque for more than a year. Despite my old age and my having an Israeli magnetic card, they did not allow me to enter for a long time.”2

“I can't describe my feeling after I reached Jerusalem and prayed in al-Aqsa. I cried the moment I entered the mosque. I cried, because we were prevented from reaching this holy place. I cried, because Jerusalem was for us an economic and spiritual outlet. I cried out of longing for this place. I remember that every visit to Jerusalem was for us a holiday where we buy some things and sell the products of our land.”

Abu Muhammad told Jerusalem Story that his sage is mountain-grown, not home-grown, and therefore of better quality and (naturally) comes at a better price. He noted that Israel prohibits the harvesting of this plant from the mountains and imposes penalties—in some cases actual imprisonment; in others, astronomical fines.

“Our village economy is below zero, because the Israeli army prevents us from leaving the village. This Friday when I heard of the easing of entry, I found an opportunity to bring a sample of what our land produces and sell it in Jerusalem. Selling here is financially profitable and carries with it the al-Aqsa blessing,” he explained.

Having sold his last batch, Abu Muhammad no longer wanted to talk. He apologized for abruptly ending the conversation, but he had to head back to Bethlehem before 5:00 p.m. or risk punishment from the Israeli authorities, including possible withdrawal of his permit and banning from entering Jerusalem ever again. He hoped he would be able to return to al-Aqsa and Jerusalem the following Friday. 

With that, he said goodbye, picked up his cane, and hurried away, carrying with him the blessing of Jerusalem.