Jerusalem Notebook

Rediscover Jerusalem through a Palestinian lens.
Who Are the Palestinians of Jerusalem? Lessons of Our Elders: What They Lost When They Lost Jerusalem

What do Jerusalemites who were forced to leave their homes in 1948 tell their descendants about the place they lost?

Sabreen Is the Studio at the Heart of Jerusalem’s Musical Community

Jerusalem-based studio Sabreen has been supporting Palestinian musicians since the 1980s.

The Unusual Origins of an Iconic East Jerusalem Hotel

A Palestinian “Pasha’s Palace” became a haven for traumatized evangelical Christians who served the community for decades and founded a storied hotel.

Blog Posts

Closure and Access to Jerusalem As War Drags On, Palestinians Face Difficulties Reaching Jerusalem’s Center

Israel’s clampdown on mobility since the war is being challenged by residents, whose lives are upended by the limited access to the city.

What Is Jerusalem? Longing for Prewar Jerusalem

Will Jerusalem ever be the same as it was?

Closure and Access to Jerusalem For Palestinian Jerusalemites Living beyond the Wall, Driving Anywhere Is an Obstacle Course These Days

For Palestinian Jerusalemites who live outside the Separation Wall and want to go to downtown Jerusalem or Bethlehem, a labyrinthine maze awaits.

Mohanad Darwish: “I’ve Never Been Surrounded by This Many Rifles in My Entire Life”

What is it like to come of age in Jerusalem as a Palestinian male?

In East Jerusalem These Days, Moving around While Palestinian Is Perilous

While Israel bombs Gaza, Palestinian Jerusalemites find that travel within the city is unpredictable and risky, and their social media can be used to detain them.

Spiritual and Religious Life Muslims in Jerusalem Celebrate the Prophet’s Birthday

Muslims in Jerusalem turned out for a rare festive day.

Precarious Status Yesterday, I Was a “Security Threat”—Today, I Am Welcome in Jerusalem

Israel tried treating Palestinian Americans like other US tourists, and I was finally able to visit my capital city.

Precarious Status Four Days in Jerusalem

Journalist Daoud Kuttab returns for a brief visit to Jerusalem, the city where he was born and raised, and shares his reflections on his experiences.