Photo Album

Lost Routes: How Travel in and around Jerusalem Was Fractured

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The Jerusalem Railway Station, ca. 1900. It was the terminus of the Jerusalem-Jaffa railway, the first railway in Palestine, constructed by a French company during Ottoman rule.

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Wikipedia

Ottoman flags adorning the Jerusalem-Khan Railway Station during its inauguration in 1892, as the first train arrived from Jaffa. The station closed in 1998 and was excluded from the restored Tel Aviv–Jerusalem line, which was completed in 2005.

Credit: 

Wikipedia

A postcard featuring a group of Swiss tourists boarding a chartered passenger train in Jerusalem in the 1930s

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Flickr

The railway not only linked Jerusalem to the Palestinian coast but also extended to Cairo and other cities beyond historic Palestine, as shown by this second-class ticket from Cairo to Jerusalem, issued in 1942.

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Palestine Remembered

A bus station near Jaffa Gate, outside the Old City of Jerusalem, 1938

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Wikimedia

A bus bound for Hizma is parked at the station on Sultan Suleiman Street near Damascus Gate, 1960s.

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Palestine Remembered

An Arabic-language advertisement by the Arab Transport and Trade Company for a Jerusalem–Cairo bus, showing the schedule and stops in Gaza and Jaffa

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Palestine Remembered

A 1961 photograph of Jerusalem International Airport, also known as Qalandiya Airport. Built by the British Mandate in 1925 as a military airfield, it later served as a civil airport under Jordan until 1967, when it came under Israeli control.

Credit: 

Wikipedia

Mayor of Jerusalem Omar Elwary, with dignitaries and priests, welcomes diplomatic visitors at the steps of an Air Jordan aircraft at Jerusalem Airport in 1954.

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Wikipedia

Renowned Arab musician and actor Farid al-Atrash arrives at Qalandiya Airport in Jerusalem in 1961. The airport welcomed a number of regional and international celebrities, such as Omar al-Sharif and Katharine Hepburn.

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The New Arab

Israeli soldiers stand beside a captured Jordanian armored vehicle at the entrance of Qalandiya Airport in 1967, during the Israeli occupation of East Jerusalem following the Six-Day War.

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The Palestinian Archive Twitter page

The main building of the former Qalandiya Airport (Jerusalem International Airport), on November 25, 2021. The airport was closed to civilian traffic in 2000 and has been neglected ever since.

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Ahmad Gharabli/AFP via Getty Images

Cars drive on a new Israeli road, Route 4370, also known as the Apartheid Highway, on January 10, 2019. The road is divided by a concrete wall that separates Palestinian traffic from Israeli and Israeli settler traffic in East Jerusalem and only allows Israelis to reach northern Jerusalem.

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Thomas Coex/AFP via Getty Images

Yellow-plated Israeli cars wait in line to cross the Israeli-controlled Qalandiya checkpoint on October 3, 2017. Only yellow-plated cars are allowed to drive through the checkpoint.

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Debbie Hill, UPI via Alamy Stock Photo

Palestinians queue in front of Qalandiya checkpoint on April 5, 2024, hoping to head to al-Aqsa Mosque to attend Ramadan prayers.

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Zain Jaafar/AFP via Getty Images

Palestinians climb over the section of the Israeli Separation Wall between the village of al-Ram and Jerusalem to attend the last Friday prayers of Ramadan on April 14, 2023.

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Issam Rimawi/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images

Transportation has long shaped Jerusalem’s daily life and ties to the region. Before borders and barriers, networks of trains, buses, and planes linked the city to its surrounding areas, until Israel’s establishment redrew the map and fractured the access and mobility.

Yesterday’s Mobility

In the early 20th century, pilgrims, merchants, and families still arrived in Jerusalem on camels and horses, just as they had for centuries. The rhythm of travel began to change when engines replaced animals, and new forms of transport reshaped mobility, boosting Jerusalem’s economy and its status as a cosmopolitan city. The first of these was the Jaffa–Jerusalem railway, which opened in 1892 and stitched the Mediterranean coast to Jerusalem’s Holy City with steel and steam. Built by a French company under Ottoman rule, the line offered a faster and more reliable route for both passengers and trade.1

The first motor car entered Jerusalem in 1908, and by the 1930s, regular bus and shared taxi services connected the city with surrounding towns and villages.2 The Jerusalem International Airport in the Palestinian village of Qalandiya added an air link to major regional cities. It was initially established as a military airfield by the British Mandate authorities in the 1920s and later served as a civil airport for Palestinian Jerusalem under Jordanian rule. Its single runway and modest terminal connected Jerusalem to Beirut, Cairo, and beyond. However, its life was short-lived, as it came under Israeli occupation in 1967.3

These networks once allowed Palestinians to travel freely from Jerusalem to major urban centers across Palestine, including Jaffa, Haifa, Nablus, Gaza, and further abroad. But like all aspects of Palestinian life, these connections were severed by the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, when many routes were cut off, and again after Israel’s 1967 occupation of East Jerusalem, which placed East Jerusalem under full Israeli control. Subsequently, Israeli authorities took over the airport and renamed it “Atarot Airport”; it operated only intermittently, serving limited domestic and charter flights.

Today’s Fragmented Routes

In the decades since, the construction of the Separation Wall coupled with an extensive checkpoint system and segregated “apartheid roads” have further fragmented movement.4 Journeys that were once routine are now subject to permits, delays, and restrictions, with many destinations becoming effectively unreachable for most Palestinians.

Today, travel for Palestinians—both inside and outside Palestine—is defined by the loss of mobility and freedom of movement. Qalandiya Airport was permanently shut down in 2001, but rendered nonfunctional since 1967, ending Jerusalem’s direct air links to the region and the wider world, and plans are in motion to convert it into a settlement.5 The Jaffa–Jerusalem railway ceased passenger service in 1998; its historic station has since been repurposed as a cultural and leisure center.6 Many Palestinian bus routes have disappeared, and those that still remain must navigate checkpoints and closures, making the journey to and from the West Bank almost impossible.

For international travel, Palestinians often face lengthy, costly, and uncertain routes, relying on Israeli-controlled crossings and special permits, or detours through Jordan and other neighboring countries. The result of these unjustifiable transportation changes is a system that restricts mobility and isolates Palestinians from each other and the wider world.

Notes

1

Ottoman Railway,” Decolonizing Architecture Art Design, accessed August 20, 2025.

2

David Geffen, “When Cars Arrived in Jerusalem,” Jerusalem Post, August 17, 2017.

3

Eldad Brin, “Gateway to the World: The Golden Age of Jerusalem Airport, 1948–67,” Jerusalem Quarterly 85 (Spring 2021): 61.

4

Ahmad Al-Bazz and Edo Konrad, “How Israel’s Road Projects Are Ensuring Apartheid Is Here to Stay,” +972 Magazine, December 31, 2020.

5

Ramona Wadi, “Remembering Qalandia: Jerusalem’s Stolen Airport,” The New Arab, May 28, 2020.

6

Sybil Ehrlich, “Next Stop, Leisure, and Entertainment,” Jerusalem Post, May 23, 2013.

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