Perspective: Is the War Inside the Old City? A Solemn Walk through Damascus Gate

Six weeks into the US–Israel war on Iran, people in Jerusalem are slowly returning to some semblance of normalcy. Outside the ancient walls of Jerusalem’s Old City, Jerusalem’s usual rush hour traffic is back: many residents have partially returned to their in-person jobs, malls are bustling with lines out the doors, cafés and restaurants are packed with people dining or working from their laptops, and Israeli grocery stores are crowded as the city’s Jews prepare for Passover. Damascus Gate, however, one of the seven entry passages into the Old City remains exceptionally empty of dwellers, and more soldiers than residents are seen roaming its alleys.

Metal barriers block much of the entryway to Damascus Gate; only a small opening is left for those allowed in by police to pass through. Adjacent to the barriers are the longstanding watchtowers, these days packed with armed Israeli soldiers.

Approaching the entryway feels like a violation in and of itself, and an everyday act seems like a crime when one walks in a militarized zone, anticipating that soldiers will stop or search those who are walking past them at any given moment.

Being in the Old City on a rainy, gloomy day is like venturing into a ghost town. Turning the corner from the gate into the Old City sends chills down my spine. Typically, going through the gate means navigating through bustling, vibrant crowds of pedestrians, merchandise carts, and vendors. On a regular day, it is most likely that one will bump into others, but the walk now is bitterly smooth. The number of soldiers multiplying, despite the lack of people, makes one wonder whether the national security threat is inside the Old City.

Making my way down the steps inside Damascus Gate, the alleys seemed wider than usual, and the stairs that are typically adorned with hajjahs (older Muslim women) selling fresh mint and sage are entirely abandoned. The colorful juice stands and the Jerusalem memorabilia hanging from shop doors are also missing from the Damascus Gate scene. The alleys that were once roaring with vendors selling their spices, ka’ek, vegetables, and home goods are eerily silent, and only a few essential grocery shops are currently open.

While the rest of the country has gained some of its life back, time seems to stop once one reaches the Old City. Life there has been placed on hold for over a month now, and the light at the end of the tunnel is fainter than ever before.