Halaweh—the word derived from hulw, or “sweet,” in Arabic—is a sweet thick paste that may have different ingredients but is essentially halva root, sesame paste (tahini), and sugar or honey. Commercially, it is usually referred to as “halva,” but not in the Old City of Jerusalem, which boasts the best halaweh you are likely to find anywhere.
Any Palestinian Jerusalemite will tell you that al-‘Amad—the most famous halaweh place in the city—is where the good stuff is.
“There are countless [Israeli and Palestinian] versions of halaweh that you will find in different packages,” says Ribhi al-‘Amad, “but when you look at the ingredients, you will quickly know the difference in the percentages of what we offer versus the rest.”1
Ribhi should know: The ‘Amad family has sustained this business for more than 100 years. The shop has always been in the souk Khan al-Zeit’s main market in the Old City of Jerusalem, but it was first opened in 1880 a few doors away from its current location by Ribhi’s grandfather and his brother. Ribhi’s father renovated the store in the 1970s, and it has remained in its current location ever since.
The actual halaweh factory used to be located in Khan al-Zeit too, at Hosh al-Shawish. However, in the 1970s, because the Israeli Ministry of Health forced some restrictions (mostly related to food control and safety) that resulted in the factory being barred from operating in the Old City, the family opted to move the factory to Nablus but still sell their products in Jerusalem.