Jerusalem is unique in its ability to bring together Muslims and Christians in great harmony. It is in fact hard to tell them apart, because everyone celebrates Ramadan, everyone celebrates Easter, and everyone celebrates New Year’s Eve. And this March, with the Islamic holiday of Ramadan and the Christian holiday of Lent coinciding, since both are scheduled according to their respective denominational lunar calendars, everyone is fasting, either for Lent or for Ramadan.

Lent is a 40-day period of reflection and prayer to remember the life and suffering of Jesus Christ. Fasting practices differ between denominations, but generally, other than Good Friday, entail limiting types of foods (such as meat, eggs, dairy, fish, wine, and oil) rather than avoiding all foods. Ramadan is a 29- or 30-day holy month when most Muslims are required to abstain from food, drink, smoking, and sexual activity from sunrise to sunset and strive to remain virtuous by avoiding engaging in negative acts, thoughts, and words.

Hajja Saadia Sufyan, 79, a native of the Old City, was happy to reminisce. She recalled that her mother was always eager to send a Ramadan dish to her neighbor Umm Jiryis, who reciprocated with a plate of Eid al-Fitr cakes.

These days, the smells of Ramadan mix with the smells of Lent in the alleys of the Old City. As soon as the afternoon prayer ends, the worshippers stream into the markets and alleys of the Old City, rushing to be home before sunset, the time of iftar.

On their way, they cannot resist the smells that emanate from the shops and small stalls that are scattered throughout the Old City neighborhoods and markets, smells that seem so characteristic of Ramadan. It is hard to resist the Ramadan variety of falafel—enlarged because it is stuffed with onions and sumac, cheese and sumac, or cheese alone. These holiday felafels are typically displayed with a colorful variety of pickled vegetables. Jerusalemites tend to buy several of each kind of falafel, together with a plate of hummus, a favorite appetizer on the Jerusalem iftar table, and some pickled turnips and cucumbers.

For Issa George, a chef in the Old City, there are plenty of choices for Christian customers, whether local or tourists. “We are ready to prepare the appropriate food, whether vegan for the Orthodox Christians or vegetarian for Catholics, who also have fish one day a week,” he told Jerusalem Story.2 Some of the most popular vegan dishes are rice-based. He added, “Maqluba without meat is popular, as is rice with a variety of stews, especially green beans and okra, while foreign Christian tourists who are fasting like vegan lasagna, fried cauliflower, and eggplant.”

For all fasting Christians, all dishes are preceded with hummus and falafel and a variety of salads that everyone loves. Chef George said many dishes simply replace meat with chickpeas; grape leaves stuffed with chickpeas are a popular appetizer.

Tania Dallo, a working mother of two who lives in the Jerusalem neighborhood of Kufr ‘Aqab, told Jerusalem Story about new recipes that are becoming popular. “While mujadara, a vegan dish made from brown lentils, bulgur, and onions continues to be the most frequently made dish during Lent in most Jerusalem Christian fasting homes, a vegan form of the fried dish of kubbeh, made with lentils, bulgur (cracked) wheat, and chopped onions and parsley is making the rounds this year.”3

At the top of the stairs leading to Bab al-Sahira, people gather in front of Hanoun, a small shop. Closed all year round, people are pleasantly surprised to see the shop open and selling the carob drink that is popular during Ramadan. Somera’s sells the most famous carob and licorice drinks in Jerusalem.

Youssef Riad, 45, insists that it is impossible to pass by that place without buying a bag of delicious carob. Just before Bab al-Sahira, a crowd of people are congregating at Al-Razm Bakery to get Ramadan barazeq cookies. Youssef himself waited for more than an hour after the afternoon prayer to buy these delicious, crispy cookies from this bakery. During Ramadan, the bakery changes its offerings; barazek is all it offers. After Ramadan, it will resume making Jerusalem cakes.4

Outside the Old City walls, the owner of the most famous qatayef in Jerusalem, the rice qatayef, has a stall. He is also famous for making tamarind and almond drinks, which grace many kitchen tables laid out for iftar.

Fatima Abdullah, 25, said that watching her mother prepare qatayef of all kinds, whether stuffed with walnuts and almonds, pistachio, or white cheese, makes her happy. “Qatayef is of two types, regular qatayef and the small qatayef known as ‘asafiri (birds) qatayef. Believe me, it is an art in every sense of the word to prepare this dessert that is only made during the holy month of Ramadan.”5

Juices are an essential part of the Jerusalemite table—the well-known tamarind juice and almond juice, in addition to carob, licorice, and natural fruit juices. Perhaps the most prominent juice that Jerusalem families specialize in making at home is Qamar al-Din juice, made from squeezed dried apricot.

Dr. Ali Qleibo, an anthropologist, artist, and author, spoke to Jerusalem Story about his Ramadan memories:

Umm Ahmed, 55, is sure that when Ramadan falls during the winter season, the most famous soup dish is lentil soup, as well as freekeh and chicken soup; vegetable soup and rice soup make an occasional appearance. Soup is a must-have throughout the month of Ramadan. For many Jerusalem families, she claims, soup is the most common appetizer before lunch all year long.7

In the winter season, leafy greens such as spinach, legumes, and stewed vegetables abound.

During the month of Ramadan, even the bread found in the bakeries is not the same as usual. Abu Shadi, who works in a bakery during the month of Ramadan, says that bakery staff “work almost around the clock to provide all types of bread for the month only.”8 There is a great demand for types of bread that are found only during the month of Ramadan. One day after Ramadan ends, they vanish from the market, not to be seen until the next Ramadan.