In the city of Jerusalem, everything changes during the holy month of Ramadan. From the shape of the city to the many customs that Muslims adopt and the strict routine that Jerusalemites follow, Ramadan changes the daily lives of those living in Jerusalem.

Dr. Ali Qleibo, an anthropologist, artist, and author from Jerusalem, explained that during Ramadan, time, society, and people change. “The rhythm of religious and worldly life changes, the night interferes with the day, and the sense of time disappears between the tarawih prayers, qiyam al-layl (also known as night prayers), and making retreats in mosques, reciting the holy Quran,” Qleibo told Jerusalem Story. 1 “Even clothing changes from contemporary European outfits to traditional Arab uniforms as men and boys wear jellabiyas and dishdashas; you will find men wrapped in warm robes in a socioreligious framework handed down from grandfather to father, enveloped in social rituals associated with the month of Ramadan,” he added.

Usually, the Jerusalem community sleeps early and wakes late as many of its shops close during the winter before 4:00 p.m. and do not open again until after 11:00 a.m. The reason for their reduced hours is because of the stagnant economic conditions and the absence of customers, especially from outside Jerusalem due to the closure and the permit regime (see Closure and Access to Jerusalem), the Separation Wall, heavy Israeli police presence, and the city’s overall lack of infrastructure, with minimal public parking or easy transportation.

Merchants and shopkeepers remain hopeful, however, and thus, they chose to increase their working hours during Ramadan this year. Merchants were quick to announce that starting from the second week of Ramadan, their shops will be open after evening prayers until late hours. They also called on Jerusalemites and guests of the city to shop and help merchants and shopkeepers improve the stagnant economic situation that persisted throughout the year. Hijazi al-Rishq, a renowned economist and merchant, published an appeal to merchants stating the following:

Al-Rishq insisted that merchants must provide genuine discounts and conduct a sale campaign on various goods starting from the middle of Ramadan. He explained that they must be impressive offers, because Jerusalem consumers have become extremely aware of prices at all markets and malls. He beseeched merchants to receive the consumer with humility, a smile, and positive treatment. By doing so, he believes, confidence will be restored in visitors to the city, “especially our people from the 1948 areas as they are the only ones who can reach us.”

He added, “Merchants in Jerusalem eagerly await Ramadan in order to move the wheel of the city’s economy, which is why some merchants have brought large quantities of goods in the hope of selling them this month, and which can fill the deficit for the rest of the months of the year if the situation remains calm.”

Tawfiq al-Halwani, owner of a shop that sells sweets and nuts in the Old City, revealed that he prepares for Ramadan each year, but “this year, the preparations were very cautious and minimal due to the unstable security and political situation, which reflects negatively on the conditions of residents, merchants, and all sectors, and not to mention the crazy rise in prices.”3

Muhammad al-Abdullah, an owner of a shop in the welders’ market, also shared that the most beautiful part of Ramadan is that life returns to the Old City at night, and movement is seen throughout the day. A town that had become a city of ghosts with increased settler and Israeli police presence now has sales that have increased by up to 100 percent in the holy month.4

A visitor to Jerusalem from the Kufr Qara in the north, Umm Saeed Mahmoud, said that she is “keen to come to Jerusalem throughout the holy month of Ramadan in order to pray and buy what is characteristic of Jerusalem, such as cakes, sweets, nuts, cookies (barazek), and other things, before returning home in the afternoon. I am very happy when I enter the Old City and start shopping in it.”5

Notably, the month of Ramadan this year is characterized by a significant increase in food and meat prices throughout the West Bank, especially in East Jerusalem. Majdi Mustafa, a 45-year-old Jerusalem resident, said that the simplest breakfast consisting of hummus, falafel, bread, and a small salad costs more than 100 shekels (about $30) as prices are high, many vegetables can’t be bought, and meat is beyond their means.

In this regard, Qleibo explains that a sense of tension and dread prevails during Ramadan as the social rituals surrounding the holy month are expensive, and having to buy the necessary supplies is an additional pressure on the fasting person.

“Ramadan is chaotic, and streets are jammed as a result of road congestion and long waits in front of shops to buy necessities amidst crowds of people jostling each other, which creates a feeling of annoyance, exhaustion, and siege.”

Qleibo concedes that there is no escape from performing these sacred social duties, and thus, the feeling of joy during Ramadan turns into a feeling of helplessness and oppression. “If we add the duties of fasting and the accompanying asceticism for food and drink, we can easily imagine the pressures on Muslims during the holy month.”

Regardless of the rise in prices and the difficult economic conditions, Ramadan in Jerusalem is a month in which normal daily life stops for the sake of a special period that lasts 30 days. Once it concludes, Jerusalemites return to their normal lives, and the struggle for survival that they experience daily with Israeli authorities resumes.